23 July 2026

HONFLEUR, DAY THREE.

 

On day three, the last day of our little holiday, we went on a road trip and took Hugo with us.  After a slow morning start and Hugo’s usual walk we headed south to Pont-L’Évêque, the home of the famous cheese.

We remembered, many, many years ago, going on a day trip to London and having a guided tour by our friend Gerry, who knew London like the back of his hand.  A Derbyshire lad born and bred, he had been a student in London in the 1970’s and earned a bit of pocket money by leading tourists around the principal landmarks.  Later in life he gave up his teaching career to make his passion for tour guiding his main source of income and a great job he does too.

One of the places he took us to was a cheesemonger in Old Bond Street.  The shop was supplier of cheese, hams and wines to Buckingham Palace and we learned that the late Queen Elizabeth’s favourite cheeses were Livarot and Pont-L’Évêque, both fairly pungent cheeses from Normandy.

We had intended not to fall into the tourist lunch trap this time, being so far over €160 down for very disappointing food.  We thought we’d get a sandwich from the boulangerie then pick up supplies on the way home to cook our own dinner.  That’s when we stumbled across a small bar doing snack lunches and we went inside, with Hugo.  Even large dogs are welcomed in most French restaurants and these days Hugo is incredibly well behaved.  On top of that, standard poodles are not at all common in France, very much a novelty and he attracts much fuss and attention from everyone including restaurant staff.  He politely enjoyed a tickling of his topknot by the waitress while our orders were being taken.


And so, we had one of our favourites, croque monsieur, with a topping of Pont-L’Évêque cheese, excellent chips and salad for lunch.  With a refreshing panaché (shandy) and delicious coffee the total bill was €30.  Our faith in French restaurants was restored.  You just have to know where to go and how to avoid the tourist rip-off traps.


Back at the gîte, Nick cooked us a delicious pork and mushroom dish with fresh vegetables, a decent red wine to go with it, followed by our duo of local cheeses and a small glass of calvados, the other specialty of the region.  That’s how we spent our third and last evening, under the canopy for the bbq, listening to the pitter-patter of very welcome rain.



We played another game of Scrabble and this time Nick won, by a narrow margin.  We have reinstated our “championship du monde” where we have kept the score cards of all the games played all over Europe on our numerous holidays over decades.  It makes a good reminiscing read…."do you remember that time when you beat me at Scrabble on the campsite near San Gimignano?"  We now use French rules, where French and English words can be played.


The next day we had a good run back home and arrived soon enough to collect Yvonne from the cattery a day early.  She settled back in straight away.

The house was very warm inside.  We opened all the doors and windows to let in some air and watched as the sky grew greyer and rain began to fall.  The temperature dropped by about fifteen degrees and we stood in the doorway to feel the cool air and listen to the rain.  What a joy that was after weeks and weeks of endless hot weather.

9 comments:

  1. Glad you finally got a good restaurant lunch! When my sister and I play Scrabble, our only rule is that the word must be spelled correctly. Other than that, anything goes -- foreign words, swear words, abbreviated terms, acronyms, whatever! Life's too short to fight over Scrabble, LOL.

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    1. We’re fairly relaxed about our Scrabble rules but some people take it very seriously and there have been awkward moments!

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  2. What a great way to end your holiday. I must try some point l'eveque cheese, your croque monsieur looked delicious.

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    1. You can't beat a good home made croque monsieur! The supermarket variety are a poor substitute but that's sometimes what you get in a restaurant. These were lovely.

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    2. I meant to add that Pont L'Évêque is quite a strong cheese, of the "stinky" variety. We love it but it's not to everyone's taste!

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    3. I remember that when I lived in Rouen back in the early 1970s, I found that Pont L'Évêque cheese was very stinky and strong. So was Normandy Camembert. Now I find that Camembert and Pont l''Évêquq from Normandy are fairly milld-tasting. Is it me or have they changed the cheeses to make them appeal to people outside Normandy?

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    4. Ken, I think it's that our sense of taste does change with time and flavours that we used to dislike we begin to appreciate.

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  3. Brings back memories of great lunches in small villages, welcome home.

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    1. France still has an abundance of village restaurants offering a sensibly priced menu.

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